Anchored in Tahiti

Dearest special people:

We are anchored off the Tiana Marina in Tahiti. Our view is of Moorea. The water is aquamarine and turquoise. In the distance the waves crash on the reefs. The sunsets make you stop in your tracks for an aperitif, for a toast to being alive.

We have come a long, hard way to be here and are thankful for being able to drink in the beauty of these French Polynesian islands. Nuka Hiva, Oa Pou, and now Tahiti. The Marquesas were extravagantly beautiful. High, steep sides, narrow valleys, deep water. Huge black clouds that bring on rain, flowers, fruit. Friendly people. BIG fish.

We nearly caught a Wahoo. Huge. Beautiful. Russ was telling me to net the jolly fish in the water as we were sailing. We had no gaff. Perhaps he wanted me to be one with the fish. Eventually it got away. I was glad. Too big for us.

We hiked the 5-hour RT Kings Hwy to the third highest waterfall in the world from Daniel's Bay. Indescribable beauty, with Marquesan history written in the ancient stonework en route. In Oa Pou, from the Hakahetau bay, we hiked the three-hour RT to Manfred's Ville. Manfred is an East German, who came to Papeete 15 years ago and worked as a helicopter pilot. He married a Chinese-Polynesian woman, with a handsome sculpted face and created a shangrila for himself: a face-on view of the amazing spiral peaks of Oa Pou, groves of pampoulmouse trees and many other fruit trees. He grows his own coffee and cacao. Makes his own cheese from goats. Has horses. Is totally self reliant. Next to his beautiful place are Manfred's cascades. A river coursing over rocks. Palms swaying. Am silenced writing about the beauty.

A number of strong squalls hit us between the Marquesas and the Tuamotus. The headsail line snapped and the stay wound loose up inside the foil. We held our breath that the mast would not fall. Sadly we had to miss the Tuamotus so we could repair the rigging here in Papeete. Russ managed to do it himself as nothing broke, just twisted loose. He got a missing part from a fellow yachtie. I hoisted him up the mast and we layed all on the Quay in Papeete. Spent 4 days there. Papeete is a little down at the edges. Reminds me of Honolulu long, long ago.

Now I breathe easy. The boat is spic and span with Bougainvillea in a valse and the hammock full with tropical fruit. My darling daughter, Sarah arrives this evening with her friend Dannel. Being Bastille day, the yachties are having a little cocktail hour at the Marina. On Friday we will take in a dance show at the cultural center. Spend a week in Tahiti doing a drive around with Sarah wanting to surf. Then off to Moorea.

July 28 Dannel leaves and Vanessa arrives for a sail to Bora Bora and Moorea. She and Sarah leave together August 11. Russ and I might retrace the two-day sail to Tikehau, Tuamotus. Then Paul and Rondy from the Pacific Northwest meet us in Tahiti on August 25 for a sail to Moorea. We will spend time snorkeling on the live reefs, have a shot at catching dinner with the Hawaiian sling, and enjoy the absolute beauty of my favourite island.

September 4 our visa expires and we leave for the Suvorov atoll (Cook Islands) and Tonga. We are not sure where we will be spending the hurricane season. Fiji?

We think of the friends we made in Tahiti 30 years ago: Jannie and Heike and Rob and Annie. And Peter in Samoa. Now there are new Danes and Swedes and Canadians who have crossed our paths. We wish you were here to relive the fun we once had.

Mike Powell and Ben Harry at Lake Union Boat Repair in Seattle have gone out of their way time and time again to order and have parts shipped to Sarah to bring down. We thank them from the bottom of the bilge, I mean our hearts. Poor Sarah had no more room in the suitcase for her clothes.

All of you are very close to our hearts and minds. Take good care, as will we sailing further into the ocean blue.

Always,
Love
Russ and Marilyn
Yacht Zulu

Note: I am unable to continue the blog until who knows when. Am taking a vacation from technical difficulties! Smile.