A Wake Up Call

September 29, 2009
The dinghy is gone, There has been an earthquake in Samoa

The dinghy is gone!

The wind howls through the rigging and Zulu pulls at her anchor, heeling to port. We are in 60 ft of water in the lee of Anchorage islet, within a 9-by-11 NM atoll exposed to the mighty Pacific Ocean, but for this small islet and the reefs. Out on the deck I hear the song of birds in the night. It sounds reassuring, yet haunting—a calling.

“Russ should we take the engine off the dinghy?” I was not wanting a repeat of Moorea, where the dinghy capsized in 37-knot winds.

“No it’ll be alright.” Russ said.

Before the sun set I looked to see what would be lost if it did overturn. The pump and the gas container. I did not check the lines. I should have though!!

Now the rain pours down and I feel vulnerable in this stormy night. I sleep restlessly.

Way before dawn I hear Russ up on the deck. I call out to him.

“The Dinghy is gone.” He says.

I remain silent. What else to do. The worst has happened. So go back to sleep. There is a 50% chance we will find it on the reefs.

At daylight we are somber, drinking coffee down below. I light a candle.

“Could the dinghy wash over the reefs and out to sea?” I asked Russ.

“I don’t think so. The force of the wind would have to push it out past the waves.“

Nevertheless I could see his tummy was in his throat. How could two lines tied with bowlines come loose? Impossible! This is what I keep thinking.

I make a hurried breakfast, and help Russ lift the hard dinghy over the deck and into the water. He rows ashore to get help from John.

John and Veronica spring into action. I hear Veronica giving her children instruction in her Cook Island Polynesian language. Sleepily the little boys respond, yes. Whatever she had said, they would listen to her.

John put the Tinny into gear and tore out full throttle toward the NW, the opposite direction from which the winds were coming.

I peel a papaya and through the skins overboard and watch the direction in which they float for a long while. They are headed just to the left of Brushwood islands. But have a long, long, long way to go. Like a night’s worth.

There is a morning shower and suddenly a rainbow. Then I see the other end of the rainbow’s arc. I photograph it. And see that where it ends, the papaya skins are headed. That is where they will find the dinghy!! I hope against all hopes. Butterflies in my tummy.



They will find the dinghy at the end of this rainbow. A tiny motu is to the left and the Brushwoods are out of sight to the right.

One hour, two hours. A long time passing. I scan the horizon, but see nothing. Then in the far, far distance I hear the sound of an engine. I scan the horizon through the binoculars again. There is the Tinny heading back! Sooner than I thought. That is good news.

I hold my breath and keep it in sight. Then see that it is towing something. Our dinghy!!!!!!! Don’t be too sure. Wait and see. Be sure. Yes I am sure. I can see it clearly now.

We have our dinghy back!!! It was on the reef at the end of the rainbow!

“Veronica saw the outline of the dinghy’s outboard motor on the reefs long, long before we saw it.” Russ said. Her eyes are beyond eagle. How thankful. How lucky. What a wake up call.

No more single line around a cleat. That is how Russ gathered he had tied it off. From now until the end of time, tie a double bowline.

There has been an earthquake in Samoa

Leslie off SV Carina radios Suwarrow base “We have just received an e-mail informing us that there has been a huge earthquake in Samoa!” They are motor sailing out the pass, leaving Suwarrow and heading for Samoa.

Oh no!!! SV Biscayne Bay would be in Pago Pago, American Samoa. SV Seren would be in Apia, Western Samoa. What has fate dealt those two boats? It was a matter of four or five days ago that we were enjoying pot lucks by the fireside on the beach with them and previous excursions to the where the nesting birds were.

I had asked Russ that if we had to go to Pago Pago, could we go with SV Biscayne Bay? I did not want to go at all, but Russ needed some plastic pipe for the exhaust and wanted a steak and to refurbish his beers. That was the pull.

I wanted to get that trip over with. My last experience in Pago 30 years ago was negative. There was a lot of antagonism between the Samoans and the Korean fishermen. The water was polluted beyond help. Lastly, they called over a loudspeaker “You have 3 minutes to get to high ground; we are going to get hit by a Tsunami!!” But that time, it did not come. We were spared.

“No, we are not going with Biscayne Bay. Suwarrow Atoll is too beautiful and I want to stay another week.” Russ had come back.

The beauty of this Cook Island National Park, a mere ring of reef 400 miles away, saved us from catastrophe.

I check my e-mails and Russ’ sister Sue sends an anxious message. “Please confirm your safety after Tsunami strikes Samoa. I pray no damages to yourself or vessel.”

We respond that we are 400 miles away in a National Park.

Russ’ other sister, Diana, sends a message in hearing we are alright. “Hello Sailors,What a benevolent star you sail under. I just saw pictures of a steel hulled cargo boat up on the beach in Fagatogo. I'd guess it to be 120-150ft, probably an inter-isle transporter. May all of your friends be safe.”

“This is the SV Carina do you copy?” We hear the radio static and pick up.

“This is Zulu, we copy well go ahead.” Russ answers.

“Biscayne Bay has been thrown up on shore in a tidal wave and is written off. Gary, Lisa, and Jacob are safe. Seren is in Apia and is alright.” They give us the news. And much more bad news of other boats destroyed.

Boats in Vavau, Tonga touched bottom of the bay when the Tidal wave caused water to recede in Samoa. We were not conscious of this, however later heard that the water level in Suwarrow did recede quite a bit, but in 60 ft we felt no difference.

I hang my head down low, and close my eyes, and take some moments for deep silence for what mighty power the earth can unleash upon innocent life.

For now Zulu is safe.