Island formation and colonization; Ancient rule; Modernization; Democracy; Making sense of Tonga; Rank; Family; Religion; Tongans like to please; Vava’u High School’s silver anniversary celebration in photo form.
Island formation and colonization
We’re anchored off the south end of Tapana. Last night the thunder boomed for the longest time ever with sheet lightening and short, but heavy downpours.
It made for a good ambience to read I.C. Campbell’s Island Kingdom, Tonga Ancient and Modern. To reiterate in summary would require my cracked skull. Radical, but need for fractured thought—especially with regard the three dynasties.
Try some of these names on for size from the Tu’i Kanokupolu line: Ngata, Atamata’ila, Mataeletu’apiko and Mailelaumotomoto or Ma’afu’otu’itonga or Moengangongo.
I owe some sort of update from a somewhat uniformed, pathetic initial blog introduction to Tonga formed entirely from the sucking of my thumb. This might not be an improvement, but I will free flow—slightly more informed.
The first inhabitants of Tonga arrived from Asia 3000 years ago. They arrived probably in voyaging canoes, or Kalia, that were lateen rigged and held up by moveable masts. Small mixed groups of pottery-making men and women undertook these voyages carrying coconuts, talo, breadfruit, bananas, yams and pigs, rats, dogs and fowl. They came not because of over population in Asia, but rather to strike out on their own.
Tonga was much smaller then. It had no connection to continental history. Rather “it was formed as a result of two volcanic chains associated with boundary between the Australian and Pacific tectonic plates.” With eruption, base was formed for coral reefs to grow and these eventually become limestone islands or sand atolls. Volcanic ash was the icing on these island cakes, forming rich soil.
Ancient rule
About the 13th century legend has it that Tongan society was ruled by a system of chiefs: a central chief who got his status and power from heaven for overrule of subordinate chiefs. There was plenty of food and fish and time for warfare with other islanders.
There was outer island interaction and intermarriage with Samoans especially, and in time Tongans evolved from small people to Samoan-like large people.
Three dynasties took on power and this is where I do a meltdown so won’t go there. There was fair share of assassination and conflict over title and land distribution etc. What else is new with human beings.
Next came unity and independence and leap to Queen Salote’s reign from 1918 to 1965. She was wise, politically astute, got rid of the chieftainship, educated the nobles rather than have them in position by title only. She changed government, put the church in their place, emphasized education and agriculture and health services for all the people.
She was mourned greatly at her death on 17 December, 1965.
Modernization
Tupou IV stepped up to the throne, all four hundred pounds of weight, to modernize Tonga in a radical and grandiose way. Over population became a huge problem and he made for great changes in economic and agricultural development, building of roads, providing for overseas scholarships, teacher training and education, rebuilding of housing from the traditional, adding more health services to include family planning, which in time kept the growth at bay.
Some of his pipe-dream plans fell short because they were absolute pies in the skies and because of lack of qualified workers. The 1982 hurricane also wiped out 60 to 80 percent of everything.
With foreign aid and advisers he tried to find oil; proposed-- building oil storage facilities in Tonga for the whole Pacific region, building on to the Tongan fleet of vessels, played with the idea of regional shipping and even the creating facilities for the building and repair of all South Pacific ships. He built airfields and had a shot at forming Tongan Airlines to bring in tourists, and rebuilt wharfs to better accommodate deep water vessels. A lot of his plans fell short. But cream from some of them took hold.
Democracy
Enter Akilisi Pohiva, a school teacher who had his own radio station and eventually became a member of parliament. Interestingly, he attended the same college in Australia for his degree as did the king.
In 1992 his attempt at bringing government corruption, mismanagement, favouritism to the entitled etc., got his radio station and newspaper shut down and spent 29 out of 30 days in jail before he won his case. His two journalist cohorts kept him company in the goal. The King and nobles and parliament covered their tracks while Pohiva was kept silent.
Even though the people voted for democracy in large numbers, a cohesive body for a strong platform was not there, along with fallout among the leaders. All was not lost though.
Now, in November of 2010 there will be open elections for positions in parliament (rather than positions filled by the King’s choice) and perhaps a fazing in of democracy with the Monarchy on the side able to veto if need be. Things happen when you start then. And I am out of free flow steam.
Making sense of Tonga
A good book to read if you plan a visit: Making Sense of Tonga—A Visitor’s Guide to the Kingdom’s Rich Polynesian Culture by Mary M. McCoy and Siotame Drew Havea.
Understanding the Tongan culture beyond the palangi in-the-box perceptions is so important. Rank is ultra important, as is family and religion the latter of which I cannot find energy to cover.
Rank
With regard rank, there are three levels: Royalty, nobles, and commoners for which a different language for each level is spoken. Therefore, royalty and nobles have talking chiefs when it comes to communicating to commoners.
Also men rank higher than women, but sisters rank higher than brothers. Relatives on the father’s side rank higher than those on the mother’s side. Older people rank higher than the younger.
Family
The immediate Tongan family extends out to third cousins for a start. All uncles and aunts are mothers and fathers to all children. That is the term ‘mother’ or ‘father’ is applicable to all aunts and/or uncles. Tongans call their mothers and fathers by their first names so as not to confuse them with extended mothers and fathers.
It takes a lot to raise a child and Tongans speak of it as sleeping near or close to the child—mohe ofi.
“If the child becomes a menace to the community, it is said he or she did not mohe ofi or lie in the kaliloa (literally a long pillow), referring to the mother’s arm.”
Religion
The missionaries did a thorough job of imprinting Christianity on the Tongan psyche. The church is an integral part of their lives next to family. They work hardest in these two areas, more so than making a living. Commoners can look to a life after death.
The church ‘fathers’ know how to rub this in and draw from their giving spirit in the form of money. They record contribution and at the end of the year read out to the congregation how much each family has given. Some families take loans that they can never pay back to give to the church to avoid embarrassment.
Tongans like to please
Lastly before my breath gives out, Tongans like to please. They answer yes or ‘io’ to a lot of things, so be careful how you ask the question. You might get the wrong answer and disappointing conclusion.
For example: our friend’s wife had ‘Delhi’ (runny) tummy in Nuku’alofa. He went to a Tongan chemist and looked at ingredients on bottles off the shelf until he found what he thought mighty remedy the problem.
Wrong way to ask the question:
Does this medicine work for a runny tummy?
Io (yes) was the reply he got.
He went back to his wife and gave her the medicine and she got much worse with debilitating diarrhea. Back he went to a more western-like chemist.
Right way to ask the question:
What medicine do I need for a runny tummy?
They will give you the right medicine.
When he showed them what medicine he had given his wife, they roared with laughter.
I’m out of Tongan culture steam and need to jump in the water to cool down. There is much more to know so that you are better informed on: time and possessions and behaviour and traditional dress and marriage, but you’ll have to come here yourself to find out or read the book.
Vava’u High School’s silver anniversary celebration in photo form
This celebration was in honor of the high school’s silver anniversary and Neiafu burst into animated colour with culture at large for the event. The princess from Nuku’alofa came for the occasion and the minister of education and others of important rank.
There were students marching in smart uniforms and marching band boys feeling important and teachers proud of accomplishment and onlookers watching the parade on the aside.
At the school hall--which consisted of a huge tin roof over a concrete floor open on two sides—the princess and visiting dignitaries took position on stage on chairs while the students sat cross legged on the concrete floor. The powerful songs the students sang lifted hearts and minds.
There was much speech making and certificate and trophy presentation and more song and conservative dance by 4 young women. The dour-faced minister of education was the authority at large in the end. Students never made eye contact with him and approached him for their certificates bent over with head bowed because of his rank.
I can only share images of this event with few words to accompany. Enjoy.
High school marching band boys waiting under the Banyan tree for word to start blowing the trumpets.
High school girls in smart uniform waiting for the green light to march in the parade.
High school teachers in yellow wearing ta’ovala’s—woven waist mats and kiekies—a belt with numerous strands hanging down from it.
The Vava’u High School Silver anniversary float. See the plastic coconuts hanging off the plastic trees. Lucky Russ was not around, he might have climbed them.
The tall chap on the right looks serious about his place in the marching band.
Grandpa is losing his grandchild. No worries. Smile.
The best sailing children in the South Seas: Zeke and Nina hail from Tasmania.
My favourite family off SV Kallisto watch the parade: Nina, Zeke, Vicky, and Gary.
High school teachers wear yellow and the ta’ovala—woven waste wraps. The ties that bind the mat around the waist are often made from plaited coconut husks and sometimes human hair for funerals.
The band readies itself to march on. Gary off SV Kallisto stands on the side for a good view.
Vava’u residents place themselves in a good place to watch the parade.
High school boys start the march from the market place in center Neiafu.
The princess at center stage. Light and my place in the back made for poor exposure. She was light skinned, slender, composed, and wore fine textured clothing.
A mother and daughter sit on the floor of the school hall, open on two sides during the ceremonies.
Women wearing the ta’ovala to the left and right—woven waist wrap- and kiekie at center—a belt with numerous strands of leaves that hang down. The latter can be made of coconut or sea shells or other material.
Tongans of higher rank sit on chairs. The choir master directs the powerful voices of students in two most beautiful songs: Hallelujah and Jerusalem. The voices of these young people bring deep gratification and awe to those who listen.
Two of four girls in dance costume wait in the wings for their event before the minister of education and other dignitaries.
Young Tongan girls dance in between presentation of school certificates and trophies by the minister of education.
The minister of education—see background right--sits in the higher position of honor, on stage. See the tapa cloth on the steps and stage. Tongan tapa is considered best quality in the South Pacific.
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