Navadra, Western Fiji

April 13 through 22, 2013


Navadra and Vanua Levu: Lat 17 Degrees 27' S; Long 177 Degrees 03' E 

In the heart of the anchorage called Navadra is a bay framed by two uninhabited islands connected by an isthmus: Navadra and Vanua Levu. The latter connected by a sand thread to a large rock knob or islet, the natural face of which cuts a profile of an ‘ancient man’. (Vanua Levu is not to be confused with the second biggest island of Fiji). The ‘ancient man’ looks down on coral gardens in the nature of exquisite. 

The isthmus between the two islands is strewn with volcanic boulders, as if a mighty force created it. The islands are rimmed by cream sugar beach perfection—carved by the waters of time and tide into boutique curves. Lush tropical trees and undergrowth create shade. Goats look down the nose of the steep Navadra: a mother and a kid, and more stand in the shade of tropical trees on Vanua Levu. Curious. 

Zulu rests in 60 ft on a sand bottom, having eased slowly through the waters and crossed the bridge of coral uprising midway at the mouth of the bay with 30 ft to spare. 

I sit alone at night on the deck of our boat, rocking to and fro under the starlight and conjure up images from this anchorage—balm to my soul. 

This is not a poem! Just abstract threads pulled from heart and mind,which need time for refining and weaving………perhaps never complete. 

Navadra Night 

I lie on the deck of a rocking boat 
Alone beneath the starlit skies. 
Shooting stars create arcs of light. 
The Milky Way is bent into a bow, a pathway for a million stars. 
Pointer stars lead to the Southern Cross. 
And infinitesimal constellations 
That in time unimaginable implode upon themselves 
Leaving looks of awe on mariners, shepherds around night fires, wise men, astronomers of long ago. 
I look up to these night heavens in bewildered wonder 
For strength and understanding 
Of my brief voyage through life. 

The masthead and spreaders are silhouetted like a cross 
And as if in the hands of geometry dividers 
Sweep back and forth across the skies 
Paying penance in signature to time and place. 
Sheet lightning flickers all around 
Lighting the backdrop to Navadra’s stage: 
Islands joined by a volcanic chain 
Rimmed by beaches of cream perfection 
A ribbon of sand emerging as the tide lets go 
To hold on to a singular rock islet end point 
In which the rain and wind have carved 
The profile of an ‘ancient man’. 
Windswept, spindly trees create ‘his’ hair at a receding line. 
He looks out across the shining sea 
And over the life forms of coral gardens 
Grimacing at the crown of thorns. 

A window into daylight: 
Swim slow motion through the waters and gardens 
And at the edges of cream sand perfection find 
Flotsam: driftwood, acrylic sacks, flip flops, and plastic bottles-- 
Impulse incense, Red and Black Hair Relaxer/Straightener, 
Goon shampoo, Herbal Essence. 
There is a White board permanent marker. 
Write a word on a small piece of driftwood—Flotsam-- 
For someone to ‘discover’ and point to in surprise. 
I smile at my secret. 

Hermit crabs side scuttle under cover of their shell homes. 
A grand convergence creating tracks back and forth to the sea and land-- 
Crab community. 
Goats –mother and kid--look down the nose of Navadra 
And three more rustle in the undergrowth on Vanua Levu—curious, apprehensive. 
Birdsong. 
A bright red boat bobs in the water 
The night fishermen have returned 
To find sleep. 

Shade at the base of a tree 
A path rimmed by coconuts 
Leads to a grave next to a cave. 
Slabs of soapstone form base and headstone. 
Gifts from the ocean are in arrangement: 
Sun-bleached coral, shells, driftwood, 
Two packets of Kava. 
A carved stick leans against the tree trunk. 
A cave of shade to the side holds empty audience. 
Native soul rest in peace 
Face the cerulean waters 
Endless is time that
Carries your spirit. 

Lightening* strikes at the night skies 
Sheet and fork in the distance. Flash! 
I rock back and forth alone in this universe 
Trade winds caress, a cooling balm, ruffle my hair. 
Hollow booms of crashing waves mesmerize 
Different rhythms made on different shores. 
And I fall into sleep, sweet respite 
Silent in this voyage through life 
Cradled in the heart of this Navadra night. 

Night comes to Navadra.



Two islands of Navadra, to the left and Vanua Levu to the right. 



The same two islands taken from the white sand beach of Vanua Levu. 



Strewn volcanic rock at low tide ties the islands together. 



Zulu is a dot at anchor. 



A sand thread at low tide ties Vanua Levu to this knob islet. 


 
 
 

The natural face of which cuts a profile of an ‘ancient man’ that looks down on coral gardens in the nature of exquisite. 



The other side of Vanua Levu—opposite to Navadra anchorage--where the hermit crabs lives. 






Home of the hermit crabs in motion. 



Night fishermen return from the reefs to find sleep in the shade on Navadra. They ask for water. 




See Zulu with Navadra backdrop and goats—mother and kid—on the island nose. 






A grave in the shade with soapstone for base and headstone. Gifts from the ocean are in arrangement—sun-bleached coral, shells, driftwood, two packets of kava, carved sticks. A cave of shade to the side holds empty audience. Native soul rest in peace. 

Steeped in Navadra’s beauty. The island of Waya is on the horizon. 


* I heard later that lightening on this same night struck the Trader store at Musket Cove, Malolailai and burned it down. 

Note: Grant of SV Lochiel told me that it was here at Navadra anchorage that the film Castaway was made starring Tom Hanks. 
Correction: Castaway was filmed at the secluded resort of Monoriki.