Zulu News from New Caledonia

Dear ones:

We virtually crash landed in Nouméa! Coming into the slip for immigration, Zulu would not go into reverse. We crashed into the dock, knocked the faucet off and sent water spraying all over the place and the French into grand animation with line handling. They charged us $20 for the fun of fixing the faucet. Boats on either side of us were on deck to watch the action. The pressure was on. Excuse the pun.

We had sailed down past the Great Astrolabe Reef, put Kandavu Island, Fiji, at our stern and made one long, gentle tack for the Isle of Pines. Fair winds and following seas with the bonus of a glorious full moon were our accompaniment. 18 miles short of landfall in New Caledonia, we were going to 'hove to' for the night. But Christian Eckhoff, the father of our friends Heike and Johnny from Sweden, encouraged us to come in at night. We talked to him on the radio and he said: "look for the light on Islot Inferno, turn right into the shipping lane, look for the range markers and come into Kuto Bay. There is no risk." We believed him, but Russ said: "Hope we don't get our feet wet with the reefs!" We smelled the sweet scent of the land and dropped the hook at 1:00 AM. Heaven. A full night's sleep. At daylight, the beauty of turquoise waters, fine white sand beaches, and palms and pines emerged. So beautiful. Christian and Hanalaura (sp), his wife, welcomed us with tea and cake aboard their boat Donella. Welcome to New Caledonia!

It is an amazing place with the largest coral lagoon in the whole world.
Wow! I believe it and wonder how the dickens we made it here 30 years ago with just a sextant and paper charts. Scary wary.

There are jewels amongst jewels in this lagoon and one could spend a long, long time here. But Zulu Express will be on it's way to New Zealand via Norfolk Island when the first weather window opens up after this week ends. Plans changed. It is time to slow down!! Too many passages, too little time, because of our late start from Mexico. We'll be coming back after the cyclone season to enjoy all there is in this area of the South Seas.

Christian has made the trip from New Zealand, where he lives, to New Caledonia 29 times!! We decided we will sail in his jet stream via Norfolk Island rather than go to Australia first. Facing 20 more days at sea and a coastal trip from Mooloolaba to Sydney was beyond the pale even though all the Ozzie sailors said this was how to avoid being clobbered. New Zealanders just raised their eyebrows at that one. Smile. We will miss our dear Australian friends, Jan and Bob, but will catch up with them some how for sure.

In the mean time we enjoy the wonderful pain de campagne (crunchy, wholesome, brown bread baguettes), pastries to die for, fresh wonderful cheeses, and market produce that put you into a mouth watering state of "gastronomique extraordinaire," all at a shocking prices. The French know how to live to the fullest here. It is much nicer than Tahiti. Clean.

Interesting architecture. Friendly. The Kanaks, with their wooly hair, are Rasta followers. Ja mon. And talk about water sports! You find the wildest wind surfers and kite sailors I've yet seen. It takes the cake over the Gorge in Eastern Washington. Fashion is where it is at, too. I like it. Need to step out of my frumpy shorts and plain t-shirts into something with chic with a zing. Next time.

We think of each and every one of you, taking on life as it serves its joys and sorrows. Stay strong. We find strength in you. More later when at last I dedicate myself to updating the blog on the green green shores of Opua, Bay of Islands, New Zealand.

Thank you Randy for checking on our house and reminding me that leaves do fall and block down spouts. Thank you Sue for being our link to USAA.

Say a prayer for us as we make this last passage of the season. Will write again after we reach our destination.

Always we send warm greetings and love, hoping each of your lives go well.

Marilyn and Russ
Yacht Zulu, Baie de l'Orphelinat, Noumea, New Caledonia